7th - 21st August 2025
7th - 21st August 2025
Wendy and Henry, her 11 year old grandson by her youngest son Richard, visited Tim, her eldest son, and his family in Japan for two weeks in August 2025.
It has been a few years since Wendy saw Tim at his home in Hong Kong and Tim visited the UK for Christmas 2024 but it was exciting to be able to go and see their new home in Tokyo and get a whole heap of new experiences for us both.
Henry is very interested in all things Japanese and has been learning the language through Duolingo, even before he knew there was an opportunity to visit his Uncle Tim, Auntie Yumi and cousins Shun (age 6) and Mika or Mimi as she is affectionally known (age 2 and a half). Henry was impressed with Shun's ability to speak English and Japanese when they met for Christmas last year and wanted to try and be able to talk to his cousins in their own language.
This trip was different for me as well in that we travelled from Tokyo to Yumi's parents' home, a distance of 715 miles and 14 hours solid driving. This was done over two days each way, with visits to see sights as we travelled. Yumi was flying with Mika but Tim, Shun, Henry and myself did the road trip. I also had to get an International Driving Permit and couldn't believe how old-school that was. Bought from a tiny corner shop in Dunoon, the only place around us to obtain one, and a paper job. Very little security or checking on any of it.
Here is a record of the very many experiences we had in the two weeks. The easiest way to do this is to show photos from each day and tell you what we got up to. Absolutely fascinating experiences for someone of my age, let alone an 11 year old.
Tim was keeping this as a fairly quiet day for us as we had been flying through the night and Japan is 8 hours ahead of the UK. After something to eat we walked back past Tim's home and into the main shopping area. Shun and Mika were on their bike and scooter and these couldn't be taken into the arcade. All bikes, even toddler bikes, have to be left in an indoor garage area where you get a couple of free hours and then pay for the facility. Each vehicle is locked into a stand and then you get the machine to unlock them when you want to leave. Brilliant idea.
The children all had ice-creams in the arcade and then there was a trip to a playpark for them where I got talking to a Japanese mother, married to an American, whose children were also playing there. Home for tea and bed to try and get us into the Tokyo time zone.
Fish Restaurant
Later in the evening we went to a fish restaurant with a difference. This one was set in a barn with many fish pools and you catch your own supper. You choose what size fish you wish to get and then fish in the pools that have that size. Henry was supplied with a rod and bait and also a net to put the fish in once caught. He was so excited when he managed to get one and keen to know if the man behind the counter was going to cook it for us. Uncle Tim said that the man would prepare it for our table. When the prepared RAW fish was delivered to the table Henry looked at his Uncle and said "I thought you were joking" as he realised that we were about to eat the fish he caught but it wasn't to be cooked. He did eat it though and had several pieces. Yumi had also caught a fish and ordered some other food and some of the fish was sent to the kitchen to be cooked but honestly, it was better raw.
Driving in Japan
Emergency shelters are provided for protection from falling magma should the worst unexpectedly occur. The boys were loving those too!
Shun was upset that he couldn't see the heaving magma but we could see a lake in the crater that was glowing fluorescent yellow and green which was a sight I had never seen before. The air had a faintly sulphuric smell and the landscape was barren of any living or growing thing. When the air quality worsens then they close the viewing as just the fumes can be very dangerous. There were notices everywhere about people with certain conditions or if you felt unwell what to do. All a bit exciting really.
We arrived at the Floral Village at about the time the younger children had lunch so thought we would eat first as they were beginning to get a bit cranky. The area was really busy and it was hard to find a parking space. Tim found one which was hugely expensive but he stopped there to get me and the children out and to find a place to eat. When we found somewhere suitable, the Inaka-an, with soba and udon, there was a queue to get in. We were given a number and told to wait outside. Tim decided to go and see if he could move the car to somewhere cheaper so that we could stay for a while without worrying about carpark fees. I said I would stay with the children, sitting in the shade outside the restaurant and wait for our turn whilst he went and did that. I felt that was within my skillset until an elderly Japanese couple signalled to me that I should take their number and swap ours with them as I had the children and they could wait longer for a table. They wouldn't take 'no' for an answer (all done with hand signals) so I accepted graciously and thanked them as best I could. However, they had booked a table for 2 and we had requested a table for 5, which caused a minor issue when I went with the children when their number was called. I couldn't tell the witing staff what had happened as I don't speak Japanese and they didn't speak English but we eventually got shown to a suitable table and I settled the children whilst frantically looking around for Tim. Menu cards were brought over to us, in Japanese only but there were some pictures. The waitresses were asking me questions - in Japanese of course, aaahh, where is Tim? The children are hungry and Shun is telling me he wants the curry and rice dish. Well ok, but where is your Dad? I asked Shun to let the waitresses know we were waiting for his Papa, which he did and they seemed to calm down but they wanted to get us ordering, eating and out of there because they had a queue of people waiting. By this time the elderly Japanese couple had been brought in and were seated and I was still trying to stall the waitresses and calm children. I thought I would just order the curry for Shun and I knew that Mika liked soba (noodles) and there was a children's menu with pictures and this on so I ordered those for them. Where is Tim? Henry said he'd wait for Uncle Tim as I couldn't tell him what to order, or even to order for myself. Where is Tim? The food came for Shun and Mika, both seemed pleased with what had been ordered and both started tucking in immediately. Phew! Where is my son? Managed to order some drinks for everyone, waitresses flapping. Many months later (oh, ok, some minutes later) in walks Tim! Everyone is really pleased to see him and he's pleased that the children are eating. Another phew! Car is in a much cheaper carpark that he had to circle around for and eventually find a place with a bit of a walk back but at least it isn't as extortionate as the first place. Yet a further phew! Tim ordered several different dishes so that He, I and Henry could try lots of things out. And relax! I must learn some Japanese food words before I go back to Japan!
As we left Yufuin there was a shop called Yufuin Whiskey which Tim asked if I wanted to stop at. Ray likes some of the whisky from Japan and I'm not likely to be back so I said 'why not'? Tim had the children in the car so I went in by myself. I found some whisky that I thought Ray might like and the shop said they did duty free sales but I didn't have my passport with me. In the end it was very easy as the young woman behind the counter was South Korean and spoke perfect English, something she said they all were taught at school. She answered my questions and even managed to swiftly and digitally fill in the duty free form from just a photograph of my passport, doing it by hovering her phone with an App open over my phone. All done within seconds and all she needed to know were my dates of entry and exit of Japan. So easy and the whisky is going down very well.
The two whisky bottles brought home from Yufuin
A view of the Yufuin Whiskey
We returned to Yumi's parents' farm in the afternoon, stopping off where Yumi's mum works so that she could show off her grandchildren to people she works with. Family is so important to everyone, and everyone is so respectful of family. Such a wonderful traditional way of living.
On our return, Tim, Shun and I took the Kuharu, the dog, for a quick stroll whilst others were entertaining themselves on the Switch or helping prepare for the barbeque we were to have in the evening. The weather is lovely and warm and the meal was prepared on a low table just outside the door to the house and between that and the farm shed, where the tractor (covered up for protection) was housed. Yumi's dad was an absolute whizz on the BBQ and Tim helped him. Yumi and her mum brought out trays of food to be cooked and also vegetables for eating with the cooked meats. There were other types of Japanese delicacies too to try out. Delicious and a really fun evening for everyone. Yumi's parents also had sparklers for the children for when it got dark, which finished off the evening very nicely. Then we were back to the AirBnB to sleep.
Traditional Japanese Living - looking at it through my eyes
I'd like to show you some of the traditional Japanese houses and the ways of living, sleeping and eating as I found it to be so relaxed as we travelled down the country and when we stayed on the island of Kyushu. We stayed in an AirBnB on the way down, and another on the way back with a night at Yumi's parents' farm and a few days at an AirBnB not far away from them and in a beautiful wooded area.
All these homes had relaxed accommodation that could be used very flexibly. The farmhouse was particulary interesting as the wooden and paper partitions could segregate or open up the rooms to a variety of combinations. You will see how these rooms are used as you look through these pages but I just wanted to mention it specifically as I found everyone just found a space and slept. If anyone walked through your room at night to go to the loo or elsewhere then that was OK. Not the way we live in the Western world but I loved the relaxed informality of it all. So easy to fit in. Henry just went with the flow too, which was also brilliant as not all children might have done.
We left Yumi and Mika staying with Yumi's parents last night as they are getting a lift to the airport today and flying back to Tokyo so that Yumi can be back at work for tomorrow, Monday. Tim and I are driving back with Shun and Henry over the next two days with a stop off in Kyoto overnight. We started travelling at just gone 5am and passed back through Hiroshima, stopping to visit the Himeji Castle, the oldest original post and beam castle and fortified city in Japan.
The Service Stations were interesting and the western toilets, even in a Service Station have so many buttons and features for warmth and cleanliness. They also had child seats in the cubicles so you can take a pee in peace for a minute. Japanese traditional toilets are very different.
We filled up on breakfast goodies and snacks for the rest of the journey to continue on our way. We were stopping every 2 hours to change drivers.
The shops in the Service Station near Hiroshima were packed with local delicacies such as the iconic Momiji Manju. This is a buckwheat and rice cake shaped like a Japanese Maple leaf and is local to Miyajima, Hiroshima. It has a fluffy sponge-like exterior filled with sweet red bean paste (anko). They are traditionally steamed but can also be deep fried for a crunchy airy creamy treat. Their tag line on the boxes states that they make sweets with carefully selected ingredients. The sweet flavor (sic) will bring you happiness.
We arrived into Himeji for a late lunch. The area was very much more touristy than other places we had stopped at. There were coachloads of people disgorging onto the pavement to visit the castle and people trying to sell tours and visitor paraphenalia as you stopped to cross the road. They boys were asked what they wanted to eat for lunch from a range of eastern and western offerings. They chose western and Tim managed to steer us to a delightful small bakery in a back street where we could sit tucked into a rustic corner. Sitting next to us was a table of 4 young people, the guys speaking English to the two Japanese girls. Hilarious to hear them trying to describe what living in the western world was like, I so wanted to interrupt but managed to restrain myself. The pastries were very tasty and beautifully made. The boys were allowed to choose whatever they wanted to eat as they were being exceptionally well behaved on this very long, albeit very interesting, journey.
After lunch we visited Himeji Castle, the oldest original post and beam castle and fortified city in Japan. We then travelled from there to Kyoto for an evening meal and a stopover in an AirBnB.
I found the landscape as we travelled quite fascinating. It wasn't what I thought it would be, seeing towns and villages as we passed, but just more and more motorway and more and more tunnels as we drove through the countryside. I don't know why I thought we might see loads of habitation areas because our motorways in the UK are mostly through uninhabited areas or shielded from view.
The Japanese countryside was very interesting to me though as it was mostly heavily wooded hillsides. Beautiful greenery and luscious trees dripping over the hills and mountains and across the tops of tunnels. Beautiful tropical trees with enormous leaves and beautifully brilliant green.
There were many tunnels as we travelled, between the vistas of these tree covered hills. From my knowledge of ancient history I imagined that Britain must once have looked similar, before we started clearing trees to provide fields for agriculture at the end of the Stone Age. Japan does have fields, mostly for rice, but there are also enormous areas of beautiful trees and greenery which were delightful to see.
On our way out of the shopping centre to go home there was an escalator that flattened out to level and proceeded to go down again, interesting. There was a load of people saying how cute Mika was as she ran through the walkways ahead of us and there was a 'Women Only' carriage on the underground train we caught. It is women only just at certain times of the day so we were all able to get in to travel. Interesting concept though.
We started by a visit to Hakone-jinja, Shinto Shrine on the shores of Lake Ashi, below Mount Fuji. It was undergoing a period of renovation but still interesting to look at. A most serene setting and a lovely walk along the lakeside, culminating in a picturesque bridge.
After leaving the Shinto Temple we made our way to the Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropeway for a cable car ride up above Lake Ashi where we would have been able to have a splendid view of Mount Fuji had it not been all behind thick cloud. A great ride up, not enough time to take the next cable car to glide over a volcanic crater but hey, you can't have everything. Some really good views, just not of Mount Fuji. Another time perhaps.
We stopped at a small Sushi cafe on the way home. It was very late for the children but they were hungry so while Tim drove I looked at where we could stop and where there might be sushi. Busy area to park, making us later still, but the sushi was well worth it. The owner/chef looked a little shaken as we all clattered into his small establishment but he was fantastic. He immediately got drinks, in sealed cups with straws, for the children and then he started preparing sushi for us. Small plates arrived at the table and the contents quickly vanished. There was a beautiful selection of different types of sushi for everyone to try. He was interested in 'what' we were, the dynamics of two European adults with one European child and 2 Japanese looking children. Tim explained that I was his mother and that he was married to a Japanese lady and the children were his. He had to explain Henry and how he fitted in and that stretched Tim's japanese but he managed it and the chap was so excited to have us in his place. When we left he asked me to take a photo of him with Tim and the children so that he could show everyone. I took the opportunity to take a photo myself.
Another really full and exciting day for everyone and a fairly early start in the morning to get Henry and me to the Airport so quickly to bed tonight.
Henry stuffing his face with fantastic sushi, prepared on demand